In 2003, during Paris Fashion Week, Japanese high fashion brand Undercover presented a fashion collection known as SCAB. This collection was highly controversial, posing itself against common political and cultural stereotypes. At this time, the world was in a place of discomfort. The overarching pain and political tension caused by 9/11 remained very present. Although Undercover never outright mentioned this event, its influence was clear in presented garments. 

For years following 9/11, stereotypes and marginalization were at an all time high. Specifically, the Middle Eastern people were ostracized and became a common factor in fear-mongering. Society developed the idea that those who looked different were now dangerous and unable to be trusted. It was not just people, choices of clothing invoked a reaction from society in the same exact way. Jun Takahashi, founder of Undercover, has never been one to back down from the challenging of societal norms. He did not want to reassure people, he wanted to reject control and create a movement. 

Who was Takahashi?

Jun Takahashi was a fashion designer born in Japan, where punk culture was very significant. Due to this, Takahashi’s life was heavily influenced by rejection of norms, punk culture, and different ideals of life. As a result of this influence, Takahashi used fashion as expression past just clothing. Takahashi created his label Undercover in 1990, while he was still attending fashion school. From the beginning of Undercover, it was clear that Takahashi cared about something deeper than just clothing. Takahashi used Undercover to challenge social ideals. He explored all forms of social injustice. He represented alienation and isolation with the goal of preventing conformity. SCAB did not come out of nowhere, it was a manifestation of Takahashi’s real values.

SCAB’s Significance 

During the show, he presented looks lacking refinement, rather emphasizing chaos and trauma. The most controversial aspect of SCAB was in Takahashi’s utilization of fabrics and textiles derived from the Middle East. He wanted to create a look unfamiliar to the western world, and reject marginalization by embracing culture. He took the step for political activism that few were bold enough to take. Takahashi dressed his models in burqas, traditional skirts, and robes. During the 2000s, these images carried major political weight; people grew weary and angry at the sight of them. 

Jun did not want to dull or reduce the situation at hand at all, he desired blunt truth and reasoning to be common. Jun Takahashi was able to reform clothes from simply material to political activism. Furthermore, he was able to force reflection on the viewers, causing them to challenge the stereotypes and assumptions they held within. SCAB exposed how people did not see those marked as different as anything more than the stereotypes that have been placed on them. He wanted to bring back humanity and individuality for everyone through his use of chaotic and unreformed styles. The idea that people had to blend in and strip themselves of their culture to be safe was rejected by Takahashi; rather he forced visibility. In all, Takahashi did not create SCAB with the intention of shock, he treasured resistance. Through his efforts and controversy, Takahashi was able to prove that fashion can act as another form of protest and critique.

Why it matters today:

Even though this fashion show was over 20 years ago, the message it provides is still urgent today. Conformity is still an expectation in the modern age, and being represented as different still causes fear. During points of political unrest, these norms get stricter, forcing people into lives they do not truly follow. Challenging the norms of society in order to allow safety and acceptance for all people no matter the background is ultimately necessary.